Ashmore Reef is probably the most deserted spot we will ever visit. The reef is located about 450 miles west of Darwin but only 70 miles from the nearest part of Indonesia. An Australian customs ship is permanently moored in the lagoon, enforcing the restrictions that limit human activity and keep the area pristine. There were six customs officers onboard, plus a civilian crew, spending a three week rotation during which we were the only boat they had seen. Boats are required to pick up moorings instead of anchoring in the coral, and we almost lost Rob overboard as he struggled to get a mooring rope through the rusted iron ring on the mooring buoy. After one night beside the customs ship “Ashmore Guardian,” we moved about two miles into the inner lagoon, and picked up another mooring for the rest of our stay. Snorkeling was great, walks on deserted beaches on West Island were also nice. Lots of sea turtle tracks.
