Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Chagos (Google Earth -5.3289, 72.2657 July 30 – August 6, 2008.




After 13 long days at sea, we finished the passage from Cocos to Chagos. The sixty odd islands in the Chagos Archipelago are situated in the Southern Indian Ocean. These photos show the way we had to anchor, by dropping anchor on a sand bank and backing off into deeper water. Not our most secure anchorage.
Chagos has a “long and tortuous history … riven with conflicting interests.” The islands are currently uninhabited because in the 1960’s Great Britain relocated all the inhabitants so that the US and Britain could establish a military base on Diego Garcia, the main island in the group that lies approximately 170 miles south of the island where we stopped. Diego Garcia is the site of British/U.S. military operations, base for bombing Afghanistan, reputed to be one a site for CIA covert operations, etc. Yachts are prohibited from Diego Garcia and its surrounding waters, but are allowed to enter certain other parts of Chagos after obtaining a permit from BIOT. (British Indian Ocean Territory.) We obtained the requisite permit.
For the last forty years, Chagossians have sought repatriation to their homeland. They have prevailed in the courts. In the words of one justice “The suggestion that a minister can, through the means of an Order in Council, exile a whole population from a British Overseas Territory and claim that he is doing this for the ‘peace, order and good government’ of the Territory is to us, repugnant.” (quoted in paper presented at Cambridge Colloquium on the Royal Prerogative, 19 January 2008. Political context (the Bancoult case) and Possible Solutions. David Snoxell, January 2008 )
To the best of our understanding, the various political forces supporting repatriation changed their minds or deferred action after 9/11. The increased concern with security required the Chagossians to continue their legal challenges. The courts have found in their favour, and it is anticipated that some sort of repatriation will be required within the next few years.
After being there, we are of two minds. On the one hand, we wonder why people would want to live in such a remote spot. On the other, if they want to live there, they should be able to do so...and it is annoying to see yachties hanging out for months at a time, killing the coconut crabs, catching the fish, and eating the hearts of palm that should belong to the traditional inhabitants.
Coconuts float on the ocean, and sprout where they wash ashore. Unfortunately, plastic bottles float on the ocean, wash ashore, and remain forever….even in places as remote as Chagos.