Monday, July 14, 2008

Cocos Keeling - we post our sign






Visiting yachts have adorned the shelter with mementos of their visits. We posted our sign too.
Cocos Keeling islands are so remote that they did not have an indigenous population, but even remote destinations have colorful histories.
The islands were discovered in 1609, eventually claimed as British by Queen Victoria, administered by Ceylon (Sri Lanka) or Singapore over the years but were almost a private monarchy where a wealthy British family lived and raised copra (coconuts). That family brought in Malay workers whose descendants live here today. Like our last stop, Christmas Island, this stop was administered from Singapore but taken over by Australia in the 1950’s. The Australian government bought out the "ruling" family in 1978. The people here were offered a independence but voted to remain part of Australia. Meanwhile, the copra market has collapsed and there is little economic activity. Residents ride around on Quad bikes, instead of cars, and sail beautiful little wooden sailboats for fun.
This remote little spot was the site of one of the most famous naval battles of WWI - the sinking of the German warship Emden. At that time, all radio communications from Australia to Europe came through the radio station on this little island. The Emden had sent a raiding party ashore to disable the cable relay station. That station was located just in front of the spot where we are anchored. The cable operators were able to send one last cable and the Australian warship Sydney responded. The Sydney ultimately sank the Emden. (We visited North Keeling Island, where the Emden was sunk, now a national park.) Meanwhile, in one of the more amazing war stories, the raiding party that had been left ashore stole the ruling family's personal schooner, escaped the Sydney, and eventually made their way back to Germany.